Peptides in Cosmeceuticals

One of the most popular ingredients used today for anti-aging products are peptides.  These peptides are simply small proteins or pieces of proteins that can perform many different functions.  There are 4 main types of peptides used today.  The first is called signal peptides.  This group of peptides signals cells to act in a certain way.  Examples of this are to make cells divide faster or make more collagen.  The second type of peptides are enzyme inhibitors.  In an anti-aging application this can mean that these peptides stop the body from breaking down components of the skin.  The third category is neuro-transmitter-inhibitor peptides.  These stop the normal communications between cells in the body.  Botox does this and it relaxes the muscles under the skin.  However Botox is way too big to penetrate into the skin so it has to be injected. Peptides in this category are much smaller and many try to mimic the effects of botox.  The fourth type of peptide is the carrier peptides.  Carrier peptides help active ingredients get to the areas where they can do the most good.

One of the biggest challenges with any active ingredient is to get into the skin where it can work its magic.   This includes peptides.  There are several factors that can help the peptides get into the skin, but the main one is size.  The smaller a peptide is the easier it is to get into the skin. Another way to get peptides into the skin is to surround them with lipids.  These lipids surround the peptides and make it easier to get through the skins barriers and possibly get into cells.  

Vital 3 Derm Anti-aging cream has 3 peptides that are surrounded by these lipids called alphasomes.  Along with these peptides the alphasomes contains other active ingredients including botanicals to help our peptides work even better.  Two of our peptides encourage correcting damaged skin by increasing skin cell production and increasing collagen synthesis.  Our third peptide helps to calm itchy and irritated skin that can be caused by environmental and stress factors.  Both of these peptides can help decrease signs of aging.

To get a very detailed paper about peptides and how they can get into the skin click on this link and download the PDF:

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x/full